Chef Bob Genet prefers the breakfast side of brunch.

"An egg dish is required, have to have an egg dish," said Genet, an instructor of the School of Culinary Arts in North York Danielle Sanders, owner of Red Brick Bakery in Red Lion, is a stronger lunch supporter.

"Some kind of quiche, some kind of chicken dish, shrimp cocktail, maybe little mini crab cakes," she said. "I also think it's nice to have light sandwiches." But both agree on the No. 1 rule for brunch: There are no rules. It can be filling or light, cold or hot, more breakfast or more lunch. If savory is your flavor, bring on the egg, meat and cheese. If you like sweet, start your day with dessert.

"The great thing about brunches is they really are a license to do anything," Genet said.

Saturday could be a great opportunity to revel in that flexibility. With Valentine's Day falling on the weekend, ambitious home cooks have the opportunity to prepare a special brunch for a loved one.

But while brunch regulations may be lax, that doesn't make them nonexistent. As the name implies, both breakfast and lunch should be represented. How you balance the two is a personal preference. Some options straddle the divide between the two meals, such as smoked salmon and capers on toast or a turkey and bacon sandwich on a bagel.

Balancing the sweet with savory is more important at brunch than most meals, chefs said. A super-savory salmon and goat cheese omelet needs a fruit cup or at least jam and toast to complement it. Chef Jamie Good of the School of Culinary Arts recently did that in one dish when she created a wine-poached pear and spinach salad topped with goat cheese and pecans.

"The main goal should be sweet and savory items that go together," said Sanders, whose Red Lion eatery will serve a high tea for Valentine's Day. If your brunch is more oriented toward lunch, a scone or nutty bread might be more appropriate, she said.

One sugary treat is a necessity if you want your brunch to stay true to the Valentine's Day theme.

"You've got to incorporate chocolate," said Beechmont Inn owner Kathryn White, who has served guests at her Hanover bed and breakfast a Belgian waffle drizzled with homemade chocolate syrup for past Valentine's Days.

2 large peaches, peeled and sliced
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/2 cinnamon
3/4 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup half and half
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 large eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup flour (sifted)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter (or spray) a tart pan or 10-inch pie plate. Place peaches on the bottom of the baking dish. Blueberries, apples and cherries (without pits) are also a great option. Sprinkle ginger and cinnamon over the peaches. Adjust seasonings as appropriate if you use fruit other than peaches (nutmeg and cinnamon with apples, for example). Combine heavy cream and half and half in saucepan. Heat until the mixture almost boils and remove from the heat. Stir in vanilla. In medium-sized bowl, lightly beat eggs. Gradually add the sugar until blended. Add flour, a little at a time, until thoroughly incorporated. Add cream mixture to eggs and sugar. Whisk constantly as you slowly add the cream. Pour the custard over the peaches and place the dish in the oven. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes (time will vary depending upon how shallow the baking dish is) or until the custard is set. The custard will puff up, which is normal. Let it cool for at least 15 to 20 minutes and serve. Serves 8.
Courtesy of Kathryn White, owner of the Beechmont Inn